What Is Degummed Silk? Processing & What It's Used For

Key Takeaways

• Raw silk comes directly from the cocoon and retains its natural sericin coating, making it stiff, matte, slightly yellowish, and limiting softness, drape, and dye absorption.

• Degummed silk has the sericin removed, revealing fibres that are soft, flexible, lightweight, and naturally lustrous, with improved drape, breathability, and richer colour.

• Degumming improves silk’s moisture management, thermoregulation, and elasticity, making it ideal for luxury bedding, apparel, home textiles, and cosmetic or medical applications.

• Properly degummed silk feels smooth and supple, with even lustre and transparency; stiffness, dull patches, or a slight “squeak” indicate residual sericin.

• Mayfairsilk provides premium Grade 6A Mulberry silk bedding with high momme weights that improve sleep, protect skin and hair, and deliver everyday luxury produced sustainably.

Raw vs. Degummed Silk

Raw silk comes directly from the cocoon and is still coated in sericin, a natural gummy protein that protects the silkworm. This coating makes the fibre stiff, slightly yellow or off-white, and relatively matte. It adds weight and reduces softness, breathability, and the fluid drape most people expect from silk.

Degummed silk has this sericin carefully removed, revealing the silk fibre’s true character. Once degummed, silk becomes noticeably softer, more flexible, and naturally lustrous. It drapes elegantly, feels smooth against the skin, and absorbs dyes far more evenly, allowing for richer colours and refined finishes.

Beyond appearance and feel, degumming also improves performance. The process creates a lighter, more breathable fabric, while the silk's exposed protein structure enhances moisture management and temperature regulation. This transformation makes degummed silk ideal for a wide range of uses, from luxurious bedding and sleepwear to elegant garments that remain comfortable year-round.

The Science Behind Silk Degumming

Silk’s transformation from stiff, raw fibres to the soft, lustrous material we know begins with the careful removal of its natural protective coating.

How Degumming Works

Degumming is the careful removal of the protective sericin coating from silk while keeping the underlying fibroin filaments intact. The process exploits the different chemical properties of sericin and fibroin. Sericin dissolves in water at elevated temperatures or in alkaline conditions, while fibroin remains stable, allowing silk to retain its strength and elasticity.

What Is Sericin? Understanding Silk's Natural Gum

Sericin is the natural “gum” of silk, binding fibroin filaments and protecting the developing silkworm. In raw silk, it stiffens fibres, reduces drape, and prevents even dye absorption. Yet sericin also has beneficial qualities, such as moisturising, antioxidant, and UV-resistant properties, which modern processors sometimes recover for cosmetics and skincare.

How Sericin Affects Raw Silk Performance

Raw silk appears dull, stiff, and heavier, with uneven dye uptake, whereas degummed silk is softer, lustrous, lighter, and dyes evenly. Removing sericin unlocks silk’s fluid drape, smooth texture, and vibrant colour, making it ideal for luxurious garments, bedding, and other textiles. Some traditional applications, such as embroidery threads, intentionally retain sericin to preserve stiffness, illustrating how understanding sericin’s properties enables silk to be tailored for different uses.

5 Main Methods to Degum Silk

Over centuries, silk processors have developed several methods to remove sericin, each affecting the silk’s softness, lustre, and environmental impact. The choice of method can shape both the fabric’s quality and sustainability.

1. Traditional Soap Method

Also called “boil-off,” this classic technique simmers silk in natural soap at high heat. It gently removes sericin while preserving the silk’s strength and sheen. While effective, it uses significant amounts of water and energy, posing environmental challenges.

2. Enzymatic Degumming

Modern and eco-friendly, this method uses proteolytic enzymes to target sericin without harming fibroin. It operates at lower temperatures, conserves water, and retains silk’s natural softness and lustre. The trade-off is longer processing time and precise control requirements.

3. Alkaline Solution Process

Alkaline compounds such as soda ash or sodium hydroxide efficiently break down sericin. This method is fast and effective, but requires careful monitoring to avoid damaging silk and to treat the chemical-rich wastewater properly.

4. Acidic Degumming Techniques

Using organic acids such as citric or tartaric acid, this gentler approach hydrolyses sericin at lower temperatures, reducing fibre damage. Processing times are longer, and acid recovery is needed for environmental safety, so it’s less common commercially.

5. Water-Only Methods

The simplest and chemical-free approach uses hot water or steam to remove sericin. It’s gentle on silk and sustainable, but usually only partially removes the gum, leaving some stiffness—a desirable trait for certain textiles or artisanal applications.

Silk Degumming Process

Transforming raw silk into soft, lustrous fabric involves several carefully controlled stages. The process begins with sorting and preparing the silk, often using wetting agents to ensure even penetration of the degumming solution. 

The main degumming, whether with soap, enzymes, or alkaline solutions, is performed at precise temperatures and pH levels. Multiple rinse cycles follow to remove residual sericin and chemicals, with quality checks at each stage to protect the delicate fibres.

Raw silk straight from the cocoon retains its natural protective coating, giving it a slightly stiff texture and muted colour.

Commercial Processing Timeline

In commercial settings, degumming typically takes several hours from start to finish. Traditional soap methods are quicker in the bath but require longer rinsing, while enzymatic methods extend processing but may shorten finishing steps. Large-scale operations often use continuous systems to maintain quality while optimising efficiency.

How to Tell If Silk Is Properly Degummed

Properly degummed silk feels soft and supple, with none of the stiffness of raw silk. It has a natural lustre, even transparency, and uniform water absorption. Residual sericin can be detected by stiffness, dullness, uneven patches, or a slight “squeaky” feel when rubbed. These indicators ensure the silk will drape beautifully, dye evenly, and perform as expected in finished products.

How Degumming Changes Silk

The transformation silk undergoes during degumming is striking. Raw silk, coated in sericin, looks dull and yellowish and feels stiff and crisp, lacking the fluid drape of fine silk. After degumming, silk becomes lighter, develops a natural sheen, and gains the soft, supple hand that makes it luxurious against the skin.

Visual Transformation

Degummed silk reflects light beautifully thanks to its triangular fibre structure, giving it a shimmering quality. The removal of sericin reveals the silk’s true warm ivory or cream tone, allowing for richer, more even dyeing. Under magnification, individual filaments are smooth and separated, improving drape and movement.

Texture & Hand Feel Improvements

Raw silk feels coarse and “squeaky” due to sericin, while degummed silk is soft, supple, and smooth, gliding effortlessly over the skin. Freed filaments increase elasticity and resilience, enabling elegant drape and fluid movement.

Strength & Durability Changes

Degumming slightly reduces raw tensile strength but significantly enhances flexibility, elasticity, and abrasion resistance. Properly degummed silk balances strength and softness, producing fabrics that wear well, drape beautifully, and maintain their luxurious feel over time.

Uses of Degummed Silk

Degummed silk is prized for its softness, strength, and biocompatibility, making it versatile across fashion, interiors, and even medical and cosmetic applications. Understanding its uses highlights silk’s potential beyond traditional textiles.

Fashion & Apparel

Degummed silk is a staple in high-end fashion, from flowing gowns and lingerie to scarves and tailored shirts. Its sheen, drape, and dye absorption suit a variety of weaves, from chiffon and organza to taffeta and velvet. In haute couture and costume design, silk enables dramatic visual effects and detailed patterns, including eco-conscious digital printing, while maintaining its natural luxury and biodegradability.

From fashion to home interiors, degummed silk adds a touch of elegance and comfort.

Home Textiles & Interiors

In interiors, silk enhances draperies, upholstery, bedding, and decorative elements. Its light-filtering quality and temperature-regulating properties make it ideal for bedding and soft furnishings. Designers often use heavier weights, blends, or finishes to balance aesthetics with durability, meeting the demand for luxurious, sustainable interiors.

Medical & Cosmetic Uses

Silk’s biocompatibility enables medical applications such as dissolvable sutures, wound dressings, and tissue engineering. In cosmetics, both fibroin and sericin provide moisturising and protective benefits. Silk-infused fabrics for pillowcases, sleep masks, and hair accessories utilise their smooth texture to reduce friction, demonstrating silk’s versatility beyond traditional textiles.

Mayfairsilk: Luxury Silk Bedding Crafted for Beauty, Comfort, and Wellness

At Mayfairsilk, we create premium silk bedding that combines European-inspired design with the natural benefits of silk for a luxurious, restorative sleep experience.

We blend limited-edition designs with premium silk for an enhanced and timeless bedroom aesthetic.

Why Choose Mayfairsilk

• Premium Materials: Crafted from Grade 6A long-fibre Mulberry silk with higher momme counts, ensuring exceptional softness, durability, and luxurious sheen.

• Exquisite Designs: Features limited-edition prints, layered colours, and a balanced palette that brings beauty, elegance, and personal expression to any bedroom.

• Skin & Hair Friendly: Naturally gentle on sensitive skin and hair, helping maintain hydration and reduce friction; recommended by dermatologists and skincare specialists.

• Sustainable & Safe: OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 certified, biodegradable, and free from toxic dyes and chemicals, reflecting a commitment to ethical and environmentally conscious practices.

• Comfort & Performance: Silk’s natural thermoregulating, breathable, and moisture-wicking properties make it ideal for bedding, pillowcases, and accessories, delivering luxury with functionality.

• Founders’ Vision: Marcus and Darshana Ubl created Mayfairsilk to combine artistry, personalisation, and superior quality, transforming everyday sleep into a restorative and indulgent experience.

• Attention to Detail: Each product is thoughtfully finished for durability and elegance, with smooth hand-feel, natural lustre, and lasting comfort.

We turn everyday essentials into luxurious rituals, creating a bedroom environment that promotes wellness, comfort, and timeless style. Every piece is designed to enhance your sleep, protect your skin and hair, and make self-care a beautiful, effortless experience.

Shop our collections today!

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Is all commercial silk degummed?

Most commercial silk is degummed to achieve softness, drape, and lustre, but some speciality silks retain partial sericin for specific purposes, such as embroidery threads or traditional textiles. It’s important to check the degree of degumming needed for your intended use.

Does degumming affect silk’s durability?

Degumming slightly reduces tensile strength but increases elasticity and abrasion resistance. Degummed silk may be more sensitive to UV light, moisture, and certain chemicals. Proper processing ensures a balance of softness, flexibility, and durability.

Can I degum silk at home?

Home degumming is possible using gentle soap and controlled temperature, but uneven processing or fibre damage is common. For hobbyists and small-scale projects, using pre-degummed silk is safer and easier while still allowing dyeing and finishing.

Why is degummed silk more expensive than raw silk?

Degummed silk involves extra processing, skilled labour, quality control, and energy. Weight loss during degumming and its position in higher-value markets also contribute to a higher price compared with raw silk.

Why do premium silk brands focus on higher momme after degumming?

Degumming removes weight, so higher momme silk ensures durability, density, and longevity after processing. Mayfairsilk uses higher momme Grade 6A mulberry silk, balancing softness with strength for everyday luxury bedding that maintains its beauty over time.

 

*Note: The prices and product listings mentioned above are approximate and may vary over time or by location. Actual costs can differ based on pricing policies, provider experience, and market conditions.